Stand, eat, and move along.The post My Perfect Dish: Oden appeared first on Roads & Kingdoms. | Continue reading
Journey through Ghana’s historical eras without losing the city’s contemporary pulse. The post An Accra Soundtrack appeared first on Roads & Kingdoms. | Continue reading
A trip to the Japanese Riviera.The post GTFO: Go Fish in Manazuru appeared first on Roads & Kingdoms. | Continue reading
Western Tokyo: it’s a little bit grungy, a little bit crunchy, and a little bit retro.The post Walking Tour: An Afternoon in Koenji appeared first on Roads & Kingdoms. | Continue reading
African or Spanish? Creole or Cajun? A guide to the cultures that built America’s best cooking.The post A History of New Orleans in 8 Dishes appeared first on Roads & Kingdoms. | Continue reading
Useful words.The post Gaijin Glossary appeared first on Roads & Kingdoms. | Continue reading
The lowdown on SIM cards, pocket routers, and public wifi.The post Getting Connected in Tokyo appeared first on Roads & Kingdoms. | Continue reading
The post 14 Things to Know Before You Go to Tokyo appeared first on Roads & Kingdoms. | Continue reading
Planes, trains, and more trains.The post In Transit Tokyo appeared first on Roads & Kingdoms. | Continue reading
That moment when you realized you actually really like instant coffee and all previously held culinary assumptions are once again up for debate.The post The Americano in Korea appeared first on Roads & Kingdoms. | Continue reading
The post 19 Things to Know Before You Go to Accra appeared first on Roads & Kingdoms. | Continue reading
If anyone is going to lovingly hand-feed me an oyster, it’s going to be me.The post My Perfect Dish: Gulf Oysters in New Orleans appeared first on Roads & Kingdoms. | Continue reading
Your guide beyond the dual hells of Bourbon and Frenchmen Streets. The post A New Orleans Soundtrack appeared first on Roads & Kingdoms. | Continue reading
Leave the crass commercialism of Canal Street behind for a walk in the swamp and Vietnamese fare. The post GTFO: Alligators and Spring Rolls on New Orleans’ West Bank appeared first on Roads & Kingdoms. | Continue reading
Lebanon’s sophisticated food landscape incorporates countless cultures. The post A History of Beirut in 10 dishes appeared first on Roads & Kingdoms. | Continue reading
Curd in Sri Lanka We are still bleary-eyed as our car makes its slow progress through the streets in Sri Lanka’s south. Our flight landed at an ungodly hour in the morning, and my husband and I are headed from Colombo’s international airport to Yala National Park. The streets are … | Continue reading
Pale Ale in Kentucky Taking a break from a long interstate journey for a small libation, we walked into Ethereal Brewing Company in Lexington, KY. The building is an old distillery that went under. Now, the industrial décor fills a brick-walled space and a big chalkboard announce … | Continue reading
Katlama in Lahore One of my earliest memories is of eating gigantic, deep-fried flatbreads smothered in spices at my grandparents’ home in Lahore. The bread was delicious, and according to my mother, after we had come back from our trip I ordered my father to search the city for … | Continue reading
Espresso in Paris It’s the bit of trivia I share more than any other: that France’s former colonial ties mean that over half the country’s coffee is still made from the lower quality Robusta beans. It forms part of my response to a common complaint visitors have about the French … | Continue reading
Pan de muerto in Mexico It was mid-October when Fernando bought a fresh pan de muerto in a nearby bakery for the first time this year. It was warm and soft, lightly sweet, and smelled of orange zest and roasted sesame seeds: a familiar smell that would guide deceased relatives to … | Continue reading
Tzotzil in Chiapas. | Continue reading
Sadza nuggets in Harare When I was growing up in Zimbabwe in the 90s, we didn’t have KFC, or many other fast-food joints for that matter, and most people lived primarily on the maize-meal staple, sadza. So it was strange to be back, 17 years after I left, chowing down on KFC’s de … | Continue reading
Makkhan-malai in Lucknow Growing up in Lucknow, a city in the north of India where winters were always bone-chilling, there were only two things that would make us crawl out of our cozy blankets—catching up on the morning sun and the cry of makkhan-malai on the streets. I have fe … | Continue reading
JAMMU, India— It is a Friday morning, quiet before the afternoon prayer. A few boys linger at one of the tea shops at Jammu’s Rohingya bazaar, engrossed in the infallible seduction tricks of a Bollywood hero. Next door, sweet and bitter gourds are heaped alongside rows of fresh c … | Continue reading
Lachuch in Tel Aviv The first time I met Irit, she was running around her tiny hole-in-the-wall café, blistering aubergines and squeezing oranges, chopping salad and plonking plates onto tables. All the while, she screeched Hebrew greetings and orders to her customers. Her long g … | Continue reading
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Beer in Kalimpong He strums the guitar, eyes closed, and I watch this silver-haired old man bring the past alive. It’s an old Beatles number, and he hums just the way George would. The glass of beer is cold in my hands, and in a day or two I will be leaving the West Bengal […]The … | Continue reading
Licorice mojito in Cesena After overdosing on golden deep-fried arancinis and hearty, brown-spotted piadena stuffed with prosciutto and squacquerone cheese at a street food fair in Cesena, my drowsy gaze lands on a makeshift stall. I’ve just had a couple of plastic glasses of the … | Continue reading
Bircher muesli in Switzerland I climb down from the top bunk in the renovated Swiss hospital where I am staying. The retreat center keeps prices down in expensive Switzerland by having us all participate in work around the building, and my shoulders are a good kind of tired after … | Continue reading
Red wine in Ponferrada “Our position ist here,” said Martin the German policeman, pointing to a screenshot map of Ponferrada—a town best known for its 12th-century Templar castle, in the Bierzo region of northwestern Spain. We teased Martin for his orderliness: his rucksack conte … | Continue reading
Doughnuts in Louisville Two things had to happen once I decided to move to Louisville: I had to try bourbon and I had to try fried chicken. I did not expect to have both on a doughnut. At 10:45 a.m. on a Saturday morning, the sign in the window of the yellow-and-pink brick buildi … | Continue reading
Wine in Oliver, B.C. As the grapes squish between my toes, I feel two things: slightly cold and very sticky. But mostly, I’m worried about the clock. This is not exactly old-school winemaking, in which stompers tread slowly and carefully to avoid crushing the seeds, which can rui … | Continue reading
Eggs in the Faroe Islands It’s been raining for five days straight and I’ve yet to glimpse the sky. The low, impenetrable clouds only add to my feelings of isolation. I’m in the Faroe Islands, alone, to film a short documentary on whaling. I have yet to get any shots of the fairy … | Continue reading
Director Lydia Tenaglia’s excellent new film Jeremiah Tower: The Last Magnificent looks at the life of one of the most pioneering and enigmatic chefs in U.S. culinary history. Before the documentary airs on CNN this Sunday, R&K co-founder Nathan Thornburgh spoke with Tower from h … | Continue reading
Coconut Toddy in Malaysia The old climber is dozing on a wooden bench, shirtless and shoeless, under a tin-roof shack surrounded by coconut trees. I can’t tell if he’s tired, too hot, or has been excessively rehydrating. Fat flies make his mustache twitch. A hefty, middle-aged ma … | Continue reading
Ma’ajouqa in Tripoli Google Maps doesn’t work in the narrow alleys of a Levantine souq, nor can it be trusted to identify nameless street-food spots hidden in marketplace arches. Tripoli, Lebanon’s second-biggest city, has a strong reputation among ravenous foodies. Pistachio-cov … | Continue reading
Amari in the Italian Alps Generations of Pedranzinis have herded cows through the Italian Alps, moving them from their winter barn on the valley floor in Bormio up to their high summer pastures near the base of the Forni glacier, following the best seasonal grasses and herbs. I w … | Continue reading
Momos in Bhutan My favorite place for weekend brunch in Thimphu, Bhutan’s sleepy capital, is Wangchen Momo Corner. Momos are dumplings of Central Asian origin. The world’s (probably) oldest momo was found, uneaten, in a seventh-century tomb near Turfan, China. They spread along t … | Continue reading
Ikigage in Rwanda Ikigage is a homemade Rwandan beer brewed from the sorghum grain. I had been obsessing over it since seeing some old pictures showing large groups of men and women crowded around canoe-sized wooded troughs sipping the fermented beverage through long cane straws. … | Continue reading
Continental breakfast in Baalbek Our journey is a throwback to simpler times, when the English literati’s bucket list included a kind of Grand Tour of the Middle East, from Jerusalem to Baghdad. Heading north out of Beirut, the road has not changed much. The steep climb into the … | Continue reading
Batangas in Tequila As a cool evening fell over Tequila’s central square, kids kicked soccer balls, old couples chatted on benches and I sipped a horchata in the corner, considering the limited options left to me following an afternoon of failure. I was working on a story about t … | Continue reading
Banana fritters in Hoi An On our first trip to Vietnam, my friend and I found slices of India everywhere. A popular Hindi TV show played on tiny screens in markets, hosts shared notes about their favorite Bollywood movies, and we had in-depth discussions about why Indians don’t w … | Continue reading
Mana’eesh in Beirut It’s my first morning in Beirut, a city that I have longed to visit, and I am standing outside Barbar. It is time to eat mana’eesh. Mana’eesh is a flatbread topped with za’atar—a thyme spice mix—or cheese, or za’atar and cheese, or meat. It sounds simple, but … | Continue reading
Glühwein in Simmering According to an old Viennese joke, the city’s Central Cemetery is half the size of Zürich, but twice as fun. It is huge. It contains 330,000 tombs, and a deceased population almost double that of Vienna’s living residents. But central, it’s not: it’s on Vien … | Continue reading
In the 1930s, the Soviet Union led a campaign of extreme political repression called The Great Purge. Anyone perceived as associating with the enemy––farmers, businessmen, clergymen, but also political figures and party members, members of the Red Army, and the intelligentsia––we … | Continue reading
Carolyn fetches a small bucket of water to fill the concrete vases. “Bend the stems,” she says. It is a trick to prevent the flowers from being stolen and resold at the cemetery. I mix the white chrysanthemums with the yellow before placing them next to my grandfather’s tomb. Man … | Continue reading
Becherovka in Prague As I sip my chilled Becherovka—a herbal Czech digestif similar to Jägermeister but not, usually, consumed in a session of rowdy shots—after another long day, my thoughts turn from tired, whiny children; endless dirty dishes; and laundry to another type of c … | Continue reading
After two decades of chaos, conflict, and violence in their home country, more than 1.5 million Somalis remain displaced around the world. To them, Somalia is no longer a physical country but rather a diaspora, a culture. Many build a life in African countries such as Uganda or K … | Continue reading